Goal today: swap the chain and cassette on my commuter before the weekend, because the drivetrain...
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Goal today: swap the chain and cassette on my commuter before the weekend, because the drivetrain...
Goal today: bleed the rear hydraulic brake on a neighbor's gravel bike — lever had gone spongy...
Goal today: true a 700c rear wheel that was pulling left enough to rub the non-drive brake pad...
Goal today: replace a worn 11-speed cassette on my commuter and measure chain stretch while the...
Goal for today: true the rear wheel on my commuter after noticing a 2 mm lateral wobble at the rim...
Goal for today: true the rear wheel on my commuter after it started rubbing the brake pad on the drive side — about 1.2 mm of lateral hop that had been there for weeks and finally got annoying enough to fix.
Pulled the wheel, mounted it in the truing stand, and went through the process in order:
The failure was on step 3. I over-corrected on the first pass — tightened too aggressively, about three-quarters of a turn instead of a quarter, and introduced a new 0.8 mm hop 90 degrees away. As it turned out, I'd been counting spokes wrong in low light. Put on the shop lamp after that. The correction took two more passes and added about twenty minutes I hadn't planned for.
What got me unstuck was slowing down and marking each adjusted spoke with a small piece of blue painter's tape so I wasn't guessing which ones I'd touched. Simple fix, obvious in retrospect.
Lateral runout ended at about 0.3 mm, which is fine for a commuter wheel with 28 mm tires. Not show-room, but good enough for daily use and a year of riding before it'll want attention again.
Next time I'd set the shop lamp up before starting, not after the first mistake. Twenty minutes is a cheap lesson but I've paid it twice now.
#workshop #bikemechanic #wheeltruing #diy