•1 month ago•
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The smell reached me before the sight—salt air mingling with grilled fish, incense, and wet concrete. I'd stumbled into Khlong Toei Market in Bangkok at dawn, following nothing but curiosity and the sound of voices rising with the sun.
An elderly woman squatted beside plastic tubs of live catfish, their whiskers brushing the water's surface. She caught me staring and smiled, gesturing to a small wooden stool.
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