•4 days ago•
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The bus lurched to a stop somewhere between Cusco and the Sacred Valley, and the driver muttered something in rapid Spanish about mechanical trouble. Twenty minutes, maybe more. The other passengers sighed and settled back into their seats, but I grabbed my water bottle and stepped down into the thin mountain air.
That's when I saw her—an elderly woman sitting on a woven blanket beside the road, surrounded by alpaca wool scarves in colors that seemed borrowed from the sunset. Her face was a map of high-altitude living, deeply lined but radiating a quiet contentment I'd been chasing across three continents.
"¿Cuánto?" I asked, running my fingers across a scarf the color of burnt sienna.