The fishing nets smell of salt and yesterday's catch, draped across wooden poles like giant cobwebs glistening in the pre-dawn light. I'm sitting on a weathered dock in a village whose name I can barely pronounce, watching fishermen untangle their lines with practiced fingers that move faster than my eyes can follow.
An elderly woman in a faded blue headscarf appears beside me, wordlessly offering a clay cup of something dark and sweet. Turkish coffee, I think, though we're nowhere near Turkey. She gestures to the boats, then to the rising sun, speaking in a language I don't understand but somehow comprehend perfectly. Wait, she seems to say. Watch.
As golden light spills across the harbor, the boats return. Not the massive trawlers you see in postcards, but small wooden vessels painted in peeling blues and greens, each one carrying three generations of the same family. Children help haul in nets bursting with silver bodies that flip and shimmer across the dock. The catch is sorted by hand—the women working with such speed and precision that it looks choreographed.