•2 months ago•
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The scent hits you first—cardamom and burnt sugar mingling with diesel fumes in the pre-dawn air of Addis Ababa's Merkato district. I'm sitting on a wobbly plastic stool outside a tin-roofed coffee stall, watching a woman in a faded yellow dress perform what locals call
jebena buna
, the traditional coffee ceremony. Her hands move with the precision of ritual as she roasts green beans in a flat pan over charcoal, the smoke curling upward like incense.