@sofia

The morning market in Chiang Mai wakes before the sun does. I arrive at 5 AM to find vendors already arranging pyramids of dragon fruit, their shocking pink flesh split open like flowers. An elderly woman beckons me to her stall, pressing a slice of mango into my palm—sweet, fibrous, still warm from yesterday's heat trapped in the fruit's golden skin. She speaks no English. I speak no Thai. But her smile says everything about the universal language of sharing food.

I watch her hands work, weathered and quick, peeling fruit with a blade that's probably older than I am. Behind her, steam rises from a cart selling

jok

The tea vendor's hands moved like prayer—measuring leaves, pouring water, measuring time itself. Steam curled between us in the narrow Marrakech alley where tourists never ventured, where the morning light fell in amber shafts through gaps in the corrugated metal overhead.

"You drink," he said, not quite a question.

The glass was small, delicate, impossibly hot. Mint leaves swirled in golden liquid that tasted of earth and sweetness and something I couldn't name—perhaps patience, the kind that comes from doing one thing perfectly for forty years.

The call to prayer drifts through the open window at 4:47 AM, and I'm already awake, watching the sky lighten over Marrakech's medina. The muezzin's voice layers over itself, echoing from multiple mosques, creating an accidental harmony that feels both ancient and immediate.

By the time I reach the spice souk, the vendors are still setting up. A man in a worn djellaba unfolds burlap sacks of saffron threads—the real kind, he assures me, not the fake stuff they sell to tourists. He pinches some between his fingers and the scent blooms: honey, hay, something indefinably precious. We negotiate in fractured French and hand gestures, and when we settle on a price, he throws in a handful of dried rose petals because, he says, "pour le thé."

The light here does something I've never seen anywhere else. It's golden even in shadow, coating the terracotta walls and turning the dust motes into something worth photographing. I give up trying to capture it and just walk, getting lost on purpose down alleys barely wide enough for a donkey cart.

The morning market in Luang Prabang begins before dawn, when the mist still clings to the Mekong River and the monks in saffron robes drift through the streets like quiet flames. I arrived at 5:30 AM, following the scent of lemongrass and charcoal smoke through the narrow lanes of the old quarter.

An elderly woman sat cross-legged behind a low bamboo table, her hands arranging sticky rice into perfect pyramids wrapped in banana leaves. No sign, no menu—just rice, and a smile that suggested she'd been doing this for fifty years. I gestured awkwardly, pointing and nodding. She laughed, a sound like wind chimes, and handed me a packet still warm from steaming. Twenty cents.

The rice was fragrant with coconut, studded with black beans. I ate it standing there, watching vendors arrange their morning offerings: pyramids of mangosteens, bundles of morning glory, fish so fresh they still shimmered silver. A monk, no older than twenty, approached with his alms bowl. The rice vendor filled it without ceremony, without transaction—just the ancient rhythm of giving and receiving.

The morning call to prayer echoed across the rooftops of Fez as I sat on a terrace with a glass of sweet mint tea, watching the medina wake up beneath me. The ancient city stretched in every direction—a maze of terracotta and ochre, punctuated by minarets reaching toward the pale dawn sky. Somewhere in those narrow streets, a donkey brayed. The scent of orange blossoms drifted up from a hidden courtyard below.

I'd been in Morocco for three days, and already I'd learned that the real Fez exists in the spaces between the guidebook highlights. Yesterday, I got thoroughly lost trying to find the famous tanneries and ended up in a neighborhood where no one spoke English or French. An elderly woman in a blue djellaba noticed my confusion and, without a word, took my hand and led me through a series of impossibly narrow passages. We emerged at a small fountain where local women were filling containers with water, chatting and laughing. She gestured for me to sit, disappeared into a doorway, and returned with a plate of warm msemen drizzled with honey.

We sat together for twenty minutes, communicating through smiles and hand gestures, before she walked me back to a street I recognized. I never did make it to the tanneries that day, but I found something better—a reminder that travel is less about checking off landmarks and more about being open to wherever the winding paths lead you.

The fisherman's boat rocked gently as dawn broke over Lake Atitlán, painting the volcanic peaks in shades of persimmon and gold. Juan handed me a cup of atol, the warm corn drink steaming in the cool highland air. "The tourists sleep through this," he said in Spanish, gesturing at the symphony of light unfolding across the water. "But this is when the lake speaks."

I'd arrived in San Pedro La Laguna three days earlier, intending to stay one night. That's how it goes with certain places—they grab hold of something inside you and won't let go. The town clings to the lake's southwestern shore, a maze of cobblestone paths too narrow for cars, where Tz'utujil Maya women sell tomatoes and onions from woven baskets, their traje tradicional a riot of purples and reds against whitewashed walls.

My guesthouse was run by Doña Maria, who'd laugh at my terrible Spanish and correct me gently while serving breakfast on her patio. She'd lost her husband to the lake twenty years ago—a storm that came up suddenly, as they do—but she spoke of him with warmth, not sorrow. "He loved this place," she told me, pouring more coffee. "He's still here, in the water, in the wind."